Death Metal Mountain (F7a/7a+, E5 6a), London Bridge, Torquay, Devon. So far as I could tell it didn’t look as though it had been climbed before. Not really a ‘deep water solo’ as you could well hit the underlying slab and there’s some weak rock to exit. Not unreasonable to treat it as a headpoint.
Red hot! Leave the Maidencombe crowds behind for bouldering on wave-washed Permian sandstone breccia where lip traverses compete with wilderness swimming on deserted beaches. Ignore the names if you’ve been there, done that.
A happy- crazy spread of low-key DWSs and solos on the sea-cliffs below Telegraph Hole, Torquay. Shot early in the summer of 2021, featuring boats galore and Torbay ship chat.
A bunch of solos in the shadows and sun at Durl Head, shot in the summer 2021. Durl Head is a beautiful peaceful headland favoured by seals and mermaids, still with potential for further exploration.
A nice arête: the left-hand side of Cut-throat, Cradle Rock area; climbed in November 2021 with Matt Goater. (Camera's autofocus struggling a little.)
The courageous quintet from Bristol Cathedral Choir School battles against wind and rain - classic CragAttaK weather.
A fun solo in delightful backwaters, which could be converted to a V3 if anyone had the energy to cart a load of mats along to the Churston cliffs and down to the waterline. Like the other new climbs here it is described in a free download on www.martincrockerclimbing.com
A test drive for my new waterwings. I miss Freddie.
Some alternatives at Holwell Tor, climbed in 2022 a few months after rotator cuff surgery to both shoulders. Now for the arthritis....
Armorican Sandstone: away from it all in the heart of Brittany.
Sea Fever: Pembrokeshire Climbing Videos
The following section comprises a compilation of films called Sea Fever, Classic Climbs of Pembroke, which were shot in 2003 by Hang Loose films (aka Peter Hall, Carl Ryan, Martin Crocker). We still think the films ‘do it’ for Pembroke, and so we decided to upload them to YouTube and to embed them here. Enjoy the sea and the precious climbing.
This episode explores the history behind the unique climbs in Huntsman’s Leap, one of the most striking landmarks on the Pembrokeshire Coast – a favourite amongst climbers.
In the company of his son Tom, straight-talking West Country climber Richard (Nipper) Harrison returns to Pembroke many years after his explorations there in the 70s and 80s. Having long put his rock shoes to bed, his objective - the classic Lucky Strike – proves a daunting challenge.
South East Wales activist Gary Lewis reprises his first ascensionist’s role on Sinecure, on the beautiful sandstone slabs of Carreg-y-Barcud, in the company of Peter Wardman. At this sparkling and sunny North Pembroke sea-cliff, fond memories are stirred of Gary’s former climbing friend, the late Mike Harber who partnered the first ascent in 1985.
Accomplished Peak climber Ben Heason takes on the sheer glassy face of White Heat, and finds himself manipulated into a dark place. Slick for feet and with ragged fingerholds ready to draw blood, White Heat is rarely other than a battle of endurance. The route is intense, but the real demons that Ben must conquer are ‘all the cameras’ - distracting and cooking up the pressure …..
‘A treasure trove of miles of unclimbed limestone......’
Range West warriors, soulmates, and guidebook authors Emma Alsford and Paul Donnithorne tell the story of how access for climbing was opened up in the MOD’s live firing range, Range West, a campaign ignited by the late Dave Cook. They revisit one of their best routes (Rainbow Warriors) and reflect upon Range West’s evolution into Pembroke’s exemplar on-sighting sector. An MOD briefing launches proceedings and we also hear how climbers are assisting nature conservation authorities to help safeguard seabird colonies.
‘You don’t get that on the beach in Brighton.’
Two wise men of South Wales climbing, John Harwood and Phil Thomas, get jamming and bridging on two great routes on Mowing Word, a cliff awash with must-do classics from the 70s and 80s. Neither climber is getting any younger, yet there is no better place than Pembroke to relive their passion for exploring British sea cliffs.
‘It was manic’. Careerist new router Gary Gibson opens up about his obsession and how Pembroke became fair game for his new climbs’ production line in the 80s and 90s. From the famous ‘brand GG’ he picks Ships that Pass in the Night and the company of consort Roy Thomas for a fingery and reachy trip up memory lane.
‘Rock is a beautiful medium: enjoy getting to know it.’
This film meets sea-cliff climbing legend Pat Littlejohn on an ascent of Zodiac at St Govan’s Head. While traversing above a turbulent sea Pat shares his philosophy on climbing exploration and adventure, which has been a thread throughout his prolific and prodigious climbing life. He is joined by south Wales activist Tony Penning who seems always game for a laugh – if only a nervous one. (A slice of memorabilia since – a year after filming – a huge rockfall altered the St Govan’s landscape including Zodiac.)
‘You’re all on your own with just the waves, the sound of the sea, and the birds…….’
The elegant arête of Herod, one of the countless classics of Pembrokeshire, is poised high on the tick list of many visitors to Mother Carey’s Kitchen. Here, Frances Taylor discovers the soul of sea-cliff climbing, come rain or shine.
This film includes the Sea Fever credits and a bunch of out-takes (unfortunately Carl's DVCAM didn’t recover).